SUMMER really has proved a damp squib so far, but it has arrived in style in Kenilworth at least in the form of the new summer menu at The Almanack.
The Abbey End gastropub is hardly a well kept secret and there are many good reasons for that. Part of the Peach Pubs family, The Almanack has proved a favourite haunt of townspeople and visitors for many years.
It’s not just the excellent seasonal menus, including a good selection of weekly specials, and the extensive range of drinks, that draws customers back again and again. It’s the whole atmosphere. Go any of time of the day, from breakfast to dinner, and you’ll find people of all ages relaxing in the spacious interior complete with its central island bar, café style booths, and open kitchen, which is always something I find particularly reassuring to see. And if the sun ever does pop out long enough customers can now also make the most of a newly added outdoor space.
Add to that a genuine warm welcome from chatty staff, who are clearly knowledgeable about all aspects of the menu, and who are attentive without being overbearing. It may be something you could argue should be the norm for all hospitality staff, but sadly it’s not.
Of course, for all such positives, the menu still has to deliver, and it certainly does this summer at The Almanack, where tradition meets invention with real panache.
We started with a fresh and zingy Prawn Cocktail with a Bloody Mary Mayonnaise accompanied by Toasted Sourdough, and from the specials, some moreish Jimmy Butler Ham Hock and Cheddar Cheese Croquettes with a wonderful Confit Onion Marmalade.
That was followed by a perfectly translucent Miso-glazed Cod paired with soy infused Black Rice, together with Chilli and Coriander, and again from the specials, a beautiful Sea Bream, thankfully with crispy skin, accompanied by Pomme Mousseline (French mash potato), Grilled Red Peppers, Artichoke and an Olive Tapenade.
Generous as the portions were for both starters and mains, we still found room for some dessert indulgence in the form of a rich Salted Caramel and Chocolate Tart with Creme Fresh and Honeycomb, and a equally special Lemon Mascarpone Cheescake with White Chocolate and Strawberries.
There is certainly no lack of knowledge and skill at work in this kitchen, which also serves pub favourties such as the Braised Beef & Ale Pie and Haddock & Chips, alongside the likes of Sri Lankan Sweet Potato, Spinach and Chickpea Curry and a Watermelon, Edamame and Rice Noodle Salad.
From the grill there’s steaks and burgers and plenty of lighter choices with some very appetising sounding sandwiches.
And dessert lovers can enjoy some quintessentially English seasonal treats in the form of a Summer Pudding with Blueberry Compote and Vanilla Ice Cream and a English Strawberry Trifle with Pimm’s Jelly.
The only real headache diners face at The Almanack is choosing what to have.
That also applies to the drinks menu, from beers, wines, spirits and cocktails, to soft drinks and teas and coffees.
From the carefully selected, and not overbearing wine list, we opted for a full bodied and fruity Argentinian Malbec, which while maybe not always seen as a natural partner to fish, did nothing to spoil the enjoyment of our superb dishes.
The sun may not have been a regular visitor to our skies this summer, but the summer menu at The Almanack should ensure it receives more than a few visitors.
Visit www.thealmanack-kenilworth.co.uk for further details.
